Olympus om-d e-m10 mark iii ม time-lapseไหม

OM-D EM10; creating movie (timelapse) from images.... dusk to night?

Apr 22, 2016

The EM10 has an option to create a timelapse movie, using a series of images taken using the built in "intervoltometer."

I've used it during the day for all-daylight-exposures to decent effect.

I want to use it to create a timelapse of day into night.

My question is: How to set up exposure?

In my daylight test, I set it to manual mode, set my aperture/shutter speed and let it run.

This won't work for dusk to dark, as i'll either over or under expose dusk or night.

My question continued: If I use ( for example ) Aperture priority mode, will the camera correctly choose longer and longer shutter times to "correctly" expose even at night? I could see my having something like 1/30 at f/8 to start and finishing at 15 seconds at f/8. Does anyone have direct experience of the camera correctly adjusting exposure in this scenario?

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shinndigg • Veteran Member • Posts: 4,741

Re: OM-D EM10; creating movie (timelapse) from images.... dusk to night?

interesting question... I'd like to know as well.

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uRebel Rob • Senior Member • Posts: 1,537

Re: OM-D EM10; creating movie (timelapse) from images.... dusk to night?

curiousmike1300 wrote:

...

I want to use it to create a timelapse of day into night.

My question is: How to set up exposure?

...

My question continued: If I use ( for example ) Aperture priority mode, will the camera correctly choose longer and longer shutter times to "correctly" expose even at night? I could see my having something like 1/30 at f/8 to start and finishing at 15 seconds at f/8. Does anyone have direct experience of the camera correctly adjusting exposure in this scenario?

Easiest/cheapest answer: Go ahead and use A mode.

Long answer: going from day to night (or vice versa) is the holy grail of time lapse. It's something like 16-20 stops of light (depending how dark it gets) between day and night. I've done a lot of time lapse, and using A mode and post processing out the flicker can give great results, but can also result in poor video. Up until recently, cameras metered each image separately, often resulting in minor to major flicker in time lapse. Currently a very few high end cameras (D4s, D5, and maybe sony's app?) internal intervalometers can "ramp" exposures, smoothing out the changes in exposure and greatly reducing flicker. However AFAIK none of the m43 cameras internal intervalometers ramp. Most external interometers that include ramping are for canon or sometime nikon, but not m43. So for us, the options are limited. Using A mode is by far the easiest. Whatever you use to convert to video, turn on de-flicker if it has the feature (GoPro's free software does have it and works with non-GoPro jpgs). Shooting RAW gives you more leaway, but most software only use jpgs. LRTimeLapse is a great software that can help (ramping, deflicker, works with LR/Adobe camera RAW + RAWs), but costs $$ if you want more than 400 frames. Other tricks like using M mode but manually adjust exposure periodically as needed, than PP (LRTimeLapse really helps with this), but is a pain.

So, yes, for starts, use A mode to make time lapses of the transition of day/night. Make sure the interval is longer than the expected longest exposure, as the "interval" is the time between the start of one photo to the start of the next. If the interval is less than the exposure, you'll skip shots; not a huge deal, but you'll end up with less frames than you expected.

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selected answer This post was selected as the answer by the original poster.

Re: OM-D EM10; creating movie (timelapse) from images.... dusk to night?

uRebel Rob wrote:

Easiest/cheapest answer: Go ahead and use A mode.

*snip*

Make sure the interval is longer than the expected longest exposure, as the "interval" is the time between the start of one photo to the start of the next. If the interval is less than the exposure, you'll skip shots; not a huge deal, but you'll end up with less frames than you expected.

Your whole post was super useful - it verifies it does "work" and gives me hints what to look out for.

Now... what about bracketing each exposure for a total HDR timelapse... LOL !

Nikon Coolpix 950 Nikon Z7 Nikon Z30 Nikon Zf

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